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Thread: Anatomy of a Fake Pokémon Card

  1. #251
    Hit I was wondering if someone could help me quickly.

    I bought some jungle boosters from a guy I know does sell genuine cards BUT these boosters were a bit weird. The foil usually is directly printed on on all WOTC boosters I have bought but here the foil came away from a layer of plastic which was clear over the foil bits and printed with the cover design.

    The only other time I have had packs which come apart like that they have been fake, are these packs fake?
    The cards themselves do seem real

    Thankyou


  2. #252
    Administrator PokePop's Avatar
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    Do the holographic cards have the correct, "starry" holofoil pattern, the same that they used on base set cards?
    Rip a common card in half. Is there a dark paper layer sandwiched inside?

    If the answer to both of those is yes, they are real cards.
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  3. #253
    Well, yea, I think the cards themselves are real, there are no holographic cards so I can't do that test and the non-holo jungle rare cards do have AWFUL backgrounds so can look a bit fake because of that, They feel a little weird and the colour is very dark, but it may just be because they are from the packs with the orange 'pokemon' lettering.

    What I'm wondering more is if the packs have been searched and repackaged in fake boosters because I've never had boosters which haven't seemed to have the design printed on the foil (except in japan) before, whereas these ones the foil and the plastic is all coming apart. Oh well.

    I will assume they are real I think, I'm just wary because jungle seems to be faked a LOT recently. Thankyou for your help.

  4. #254
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    So, you got a bunch of packs with no holofoils in any of them?
    Had they been sold with the warning that they had been weighted to removed the packs that had foil?
    Not sure about the "orange" Pokemon lettering, or them being darker than normal.
    None of these sound like good things.
    I'm not aware of packs "falling apart" like you describe, either.
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  5. #255
    I have a pikachu with a move called tail whap does that make it fake??
    Ive tried your suggestions but it seems real

    ---------- Post added 04/29/2012 at 03:10 PM ----------

    I bought some cards from a dude on eBay and now I think they're all fake >:(

  6. #256
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    what is the set symbol and number on that card?
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  7. #257
    I bought a few packs from a toy and game dealer stall at a staffed warehouse that sells a range of collectables, art and designer goods. I am a little skeptical however about the authenticity of the cards. They were cheap, not staggeringly cheaper than elsewhere but there were only a few packs left so this could be why.

    They feel the same thickness as my regular cards and they do not let light through. The accent is over the "e" in the word Pokemon, the font appears the same as my other cards and the energy symbols are not "bloated" as you say. The foil cards are proper foil, with changing holographic patterns too, but they have some differences to other boosters I have bought.

    Firstly, the foil cards were not facing the same way as all the other cards in the pack. Imagine the pack was face up, then one card was face down at the bottom of the pack. This might be normal but I have never noticed this before.

    Secondly, the backs of all the cards are slightly different to my regular cards. The blue boarder is a somewhat lighter shade of blue (although does have a crisp edge). There seems to be a little less detail in the swirly pattern too, when compared to my other cards.

    Thirdly, the backs of all the foil cards (and there was one in each of the packs I have bought) has not got the same finish to both my existing cards and the others in the booster; it looks and feels more matt compared to the glossier finish of other cards

    Finally, there were no cards containing online codes. Again, this might be noirmal but I have had them with other booster packs so it struck me as odd. The packs were "Black and White" too, so I think that they were not released before online code cards may have started.

    I'd like to know what people think f these, as it's the closest place I have found to get cards, so it would be nice if I didn't have to boycot it. Thanks.

  8. #258
    Is there a way to know if a full art card is fake, such as N
    I dont have it but plan to buy it

    also
    I dont buy any pack's or any boxes,deck's or tin's (im paranoid)
    just single's online from powerseller's and online store's
    mostly japanese cards that are unreleased, any way to tell if there fake, (I know japanese cards are thinner)
    My royal tounge!

  9. #259
    ^If the FA N isn't holo it is fake, otherwise the text and back would be the best way to knowing.

  10. #260
    Hi guys, I have recently started collecting Pokemon cards and have found the original post of this thread, combined with genuine card scans on this and other sites, to be extremely valuable in identifying fakes thus saving myself time and money for which I am extremely grateful.

    I do however, still have a few question marks over some of the cards in my collection and was hoping someone on here would be able to enlighten me. The first card I would appreciate clarification on is from the Diamond and Pearl Secret Wonders set - Raikou (16/132). I've included a scan of my card:

    http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/3719/raikouq.png

    As far as I can tell, there are no problems with the wording, formatting, colour, back of the card, physical feel of the card etc. However, the 12 other holofoils from Secret Wonders I own all have a 'splatter' holofoil, as do various genuine card scans I can find online. My Raikou has 'block' holofoil which has come out very clearly in the above scan (the triangles), but is very hard to notice otherwise as it almost gives the impression of 'splatter', if that makes sense.

    Go easy on me if I'm being an idiot - I'm still getting to grips with it all!
    Many thanks in advance!

    edit : I have entertained the thought it's a reverse, but would have thought the card background would be gold in that case?

  11. #261
    ^ That Raikou looks like a misprint. Keep in mind that doesn't mean its fake because it is real. The border is a little off and that's it.
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  12. #262
    Thanks PMysterious, so they possibly just made the mistake of using the wrong holofoil layer during production run my card was in? I can deal with that.

    I think the border looking off (righthand side certainly) is down to my scanning.

  13. #263
    Not the wrong foil. That is the foil they use when they put the cards in blister packs with with a pack or two of cards.
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  14. #264
    Administrator PokePop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evil psyduck View Post
    Not the wrong foil. That is the foil they use when they put the cards in blister packs with with a pack or two of cards.
    I don't recall them doing that card as a promo version though. Did they?
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  15. #265
    I have one like that but can't remember where i got it.
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  17. #267
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    Didn't they use the Cracked Ice for the normal Raikou card included in the Shiny Raikou tin?
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  18. #268
    I think they did.
    The power of Light and Dark come to me as I was Jedi Jigglypuff. However, ever since my death in the past, I wanted revenge. So now, I am Darth Jigglypuff.

    Please join this site to play my newest modded game, Werewolf 4- The Night of the Cultwolf.
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  19. #269

    Trying to Sell, Need to Identify.

    Hey everyone here,

    I sell Pokemon cards on Ebay, I'm not here to push sales..etc. But the opposite. I need help identifying fake cards from real ones. I have boughten several 1000 card lots, and collections( I do not buy booster packs...etc, because I know they are fake).

    I should give some background information before I ask my questions. I am 22 years old, I collected Pokemon at the start of the game, and did not buy cards anytime after the year 2000. So I mainly collected and am mainly familiar with, and am mainly interested in older cards, any card from any of the older sets neo and before. The older style. I do have new cards, and am interested in identifying their authenticity, I am just no as familiar with these cards of there values, and find the new set up of Pokemon Cards confusing, seems like they just pump out cards to make as much money as they can.

    Anyways back to topic.

    I know the obvious was the spot Pokemon cards that are fake, just by blatant visual errors, or spelling mistakes....etc. There are just some things I have heard that seem to contradict eachother when you employ all methods to identify a fake card.

    For one, the talk of a black layer, I have ripped literally hundreds of cards trying to identify authenticity, all of them except for a few obvious fake HOLO(ONLY HOLOS) where difficult to rip. Secondly, every single card had the "black" middle thing layer that is probaly just an adhesive.

    This went for cards that light shone threw, and light didn't shine threw as well. They ripped the same, they seemed to be layered the same, and they where made of the same material basically.

    So here comes my first two questions:

    Is the layer of black inbetween the cards a true indicator of a real card?

    Because literaly every card I ripped had this layer, and some of these cards had more uneven borders, and didn't pass the light test as well.

    What does the light test mean?

    because when I put my cards up to a light bulb I can see threw ALL of them, and I bought real cards from legit dealers, and have done this to thousands of cards, because literally every card I ripped had a black layer, but every card I tested then ripped failed the light test.

    Some cards you can see more easily threw than others, but when you put it up to a lightbulb you can see a bit threw them all. I've heard this is a sure fire way to see if your cards are fake, so does this mean every card I have accumulated over my lifetime, which is thousands, are fake? I never went to a fleamarket, or swapmeet..etc only legit toy stores to buy my cards. However some of the Ebay cards, I bought are more obviously fake.

    SO can someone tell me specifics about the light test, if the card is really transparent than it's fake? Or if any bit of the image comes threw it's fake?

    My second last question is this:

    Is an uneven border a dead giveaway?

    A lot of the cards have uneven borders, sometimes it is miniscule and I think I am just being too critical and wanting to find fakes so much that I am identifying legit cards as fakes and scraping them. Especially with the older cards. I find gym heroes and gym challenge cards have different size top and bottom borders.

    My last question is:

    Is there any universal rule or way to find out if your cards are real?

    All my cards have correct information on them, correct spelling, I've seperated all the errors..etc, but some are very transparent when put to a light bulb, some have un even borders. For the most part they all seem legit, but I've somehow convinced myself they are all fake after reading this thread, I do not want to be providing fake cards to my customers, and basically will stop selling if I cant find a sure fire way to identify fakes.

    It seems there are just MORE fakes than REAL cards, and that there is no way to identify cards unless they make a mistake on spelling, which REALLY IS NOT OFTEN.

    So can anyone answer those questions, I am particularily interested in the light test question, and the uneven border question, please note I'm dealing with older cards, I will learn the newer cards later on.

    PLEASE NO ONE SAYS SPELLING ERRORS, OR FLIMSY FEELS, all the cards are correctly spelt, and feel real, HOLOGRAPHIC are the only cards I've noticed to be dead giveaway fakes, which is what brought me to this thread. I also know about bloated symbols, the un uniform back colouring, and the purplish ting.

    Thanks again,

    And know there are good sellers out there who want to bring collectors and players legit products.

    I REALLY NEED TO BECOME AN EXPERT ON IDENTIFYING FAKES.

    Also if anyone could just there input if you know how to identify fakes, on the amount of fakes you find you get from Ebay.

    I'd like to know a percentage, and if I should stop buying off there. Please note I do not buy boxed and packaged cards off there, I know those are fake for the most part, I mainly look for collections of sellers who don't have a lot of sales, and seem more likely to be selling a personal collection(which I hope is more likely to contain legit cards)

    Also to anyone who has bought fakes HOW legit did they seem to you, because if what I have are fakes, they are EXCELLENT fakes, superbly done. I just don't want them if they are worthless, and don't want to sell fake cards, because I plan on becoming a legit authorized dealer. If these cards are fake its off to the garbage.

    THANKS SO MUCH TO ANYONE WHO CAN ANSWER OR HELP ME OUT WITH ANY OF THESE.

    Not to sound xenophobic but I live in an area where there are a lot of Asians, many of them still only speak Chinese, Korean...etc. I know that people like this have more access to knock off products due to the nature of industry in their "native" country. This leads me to believe my particular area is blasted with fakes, just due to the sheer number of Knock off stores around, there is literally and Entire mall, that is just an asian mall, and it's all knock offs. It gets shut down like three times a year by the police.

    Im in the suburbs of Toronto, have no problem with any kind of immigrant, but I just know a lot of them DO have access to cheap knock off products, in BULK, and I just hope to god I wasn't screwed over as a kid.

  20. #270
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    There is also the fact on some of the counterfeit pokemon cards.
    1. The fact that the font is either smaller/or larger than that of the original print.
    2. The emblem on the upper right corner of a pokemon card has a slightly pixelated look to it.
    3. The images on the card(s) are slightly blurred and/or faded.
    This is how i could tell the difference from the counterfeit and the real thing.
    Since i had a knock-off copy of a Delta Species Deoxys once.

  21. #271
    @WooEEE: did you even read this thread? I read it a while ago, and seem to remember a number of good posts about it. There are also a couple good videos on youtube about fakes and identifying them.
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  22. #272
    ^ Yes I did. Did you even read my post?

    My post clearly indicates I am confused how to identify a fake because EVERYTHING in this post CONTRADICTS ITSELF.

    1.
    For one the black layer of adhesive is found in almost every card I have ripped, a lot of these cards were transparant somewhat when held up to light. I have also not found the black layer in cards that were not see through.

    So which one is true? The light test or the black adhesive, because they show up together, one or the other, or both being absent.

    -- I think FAKES also have black adhesives, I think FAKES also are not see through. I think REAL cards are see through depending on colour, and I think REAL CARDS do have the black adhesive

    2.
    Every card that I have encountered that I believe to be fake had all the correct information on it as well. The correct Pokemon, the accent, good looking image, practically indistinguishable from a real one, but they felt weird. Waxy almost.

    So again, there is a contradiction in this thread, because MAJORITY OF FAKE CARDS LOOK EXACTLY LIKE REAL ONES.

    -- I think most counterfeiters use high quality scanners

    3.
    Is the holofoil part printed only on the part that is holo, or is there a layer of foil for holo cards. I am refering to old cards.

    4.
    People mention discolouring, but it is impossible for any machine to keep a completely consistent colour in any manufacturing process, meaning CARDS WILL VARY IN COLOUR TONE.

    5.
    People mention uneven borders, however again, it is impossible for any machine to keep a completely consistent border when printing thousands of an item at a time, meaning CARDS WILL VARY IN BORDER. Majority are even though.



    -----------

    I have thousands of cards, I need to pick out the fakes, I used to be able to tell which is fake, or thought I could, but after reading this thread I know think EVERY CARD IS FAKE, because you guys are mentioning too many indefinite things with no intrinsic detail.

    I WANT DETAILS.

    HOW DO YOU IDENTIFY FAKES.

    What is a sure fire way to identify a fake card that LOOKS THE SAME, IS THE SAME COLOUR, THE SAME SIZE, and THE SAME CUT. Because ALL MY CARDS ARE LIKE THIS AND THEY CANT ALL BE REAL.

    This thread really isn't as organized and great as it seems, yes it's helpful but it has no sourcing to back up any of it's information, and IT CONTRADICTS itself.

    EVERYTHING ON YOUTUBE IS USELESS. They only tell you how to identify FAKES THAT ARE OBVIOUS. DOES NOBODY REALIZE MAJORITY OF COUNTERFEITERS MAKE QUALITY CARDS THAT ARE PRACTICALLY INDISTINGUISHABLE TO THE HUMAN EYE FROM A REAL ONE.

    I mean, some of my older fake holos LOOKED BETTER and REALER than a real card, but after TRYING TO RIP BOTH, I found out the ones that according to this thread I would've identified as real WAS A FAKE, and the "fake" was real.

    THE ONLY THING IN THIS THREAD THAT IS HELPFUL IS THE RIP TEST, BECAUSE FAKE HOLOGRAPHIC CARDS ARE FREAKIN IMPOSSIBLE TO RIP. BUT REAL ONES ARE JUST AS EASY TO RIP AS A COMMON CARD.

    The only advice I can add to this thread that I can say for sure, and I do own and have dealt with thousands of cards, is that a REAL HOLOGRAPHIC will be very hard to tell if it is holo if the card is compared to a real common card with the front facing down. Meaning you are holding both cards, but only with the Pokemon/Poke Ball back of the card facing you, when you do this, you should not be able to tell which one is holo or not.

    Every fake holo I've dealt with that I tried this with, I had no problem pointing out, they are harder, and even THICKER than real holos. Real holos feel like any regular card.

    So yea, if anyone could add to that or clarify anything that would be great.

    I HAVE READ EVERY PAGE OF THIS THREAD
    Last edited by WooEEE; 09/08/2012 at 11:03 PM.

  23. #273
    What we have here are the obvious things. The wrong text. Cards that just look or feel wrong. But it takes a while to easily discern the difference between a good card and a bad card.

    Here are a few tips so that you'll never, ever purchase a fake card.

    1) Never buy from a flea market. Those are almost always going to be fake.

    2) If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

    I have yet to see a legit Pokemon pack sold for less than $3 a pack or less than $80 a box. And even those numbers are pushing it. If you're buying for less than that, something's up.

    I always buy from vendors that I trust absolutely, or from local card shops. Generally the Big Box stores are OK, but you never want to buy third party repacks. If the cardboard part doesn't have the Pokemon or GameFreak copyrights on it, then there's the possibility of it being fake.

    As far as the ways to identify fake cards after you've bought them, what you see is what you get. You have to be very, VERY familiar with legit cards so that you can pick out the fakes easily. Some of them are very good. Most are not. We can't give a definite 100% formula for picking out fakes, because there are more types of fakes than there are pages on the web. The best thing you can do is know what the legit cards look like, and when something looks too far off, there's the distinct possibility that it's fake.
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  24. #274
    Administrator PokePop's Avatar
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    WooEEE: What kind of light are you shining through the cards?
    I mean, if you're using a kleig light or some other intense lighting, maybe you're seeing through cards that one does not normally see though.
    You'd want to use an ordinary house light.
    Use a card that you know is real to compare.

    If you have a black middle layer, that should be a good card.
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  25. #275
    ^

    Thanks for the response both you guys.

    Ok, so I know an am familiar with legit cards from the OLDER SETS. I mean I know if it is DEFINATELY A FAKE, but again what I have found contradicts itself. Most cards SOME of the light shines through, ONLY BLUE AND GREEN I have found to block everything.

    To answer your question Pokepop, I am using a lamp lightbulb, however I take the shade off and put the card RIGHT UP TO THE BULB

    A QUICK NOTE ABOUT THIS THAT I THINK IS ESSENTIAL TO THE THREAD IS IF YOU ARE FROM EUROPE DO NOT PUT YOUR CARDS UP TO A LIGHT BULB FOR THE LIGHT TEST, THE ADHESIVE USED IS DIFFERENT IN EUROPE AND BUBBLES WHEN EXPOSED TO THOSE TEMPERATURES YOU WILL RUIN YOUR LEGIT CARDS IF YOU DO THIS.

    So yea, I am using a lamp, European cards bubble. I PUT THE CARD ON THE BULB, if that helps.




    The middle black layer is a crock I think, or I am just over analyzing cards, I have RIPPED HUNDREDS OF CARDS, LITERALLY HUNDREDS OF PRODUCT, and only maybe two or three didn't have the black adhesive.

    Every card I ripped though, failed several tests that IDENTIFY fakes, that I got from this thread, yet they had this black adhesive layer.

    A lot of my for sure real cards, ones I bought at legit stores in the 90's, also fail some tests, especially the even border test. Can anyone clarify on this, is every single card perfectly even really, cause I find that hard to believe; and know it is impossible. I just find a lot of borders not to be perfect(Im talking about yellow around info/picture, and blue border on back.



    ANOTHER QUESTION ABOUT NEW AGE CARDS. Are they flimsier than older cards, because I find them all to feel a lot crappier/ thinner than the older ones. And another, if you do the light test on new age cards do you notice a weird "web" or almost "stained glass" look (if any light does shine through). It looks like some kind of funky adhesive, this only shows up on NEWER CARDS, not older.

    By older I also mean anything NEO and below.

    By newer I mean anything e reader and up.

    * the reason I need to know is I sell on Ebay, and only want to list what I know is real, I am running out of cards I can verify as real for sure, and need to start properly sorting my unlisted cards. I am trying to obey ebay policy, and there is no COURSE or real government certification to do this, it kind of is up to experience, the same goes for coins, ANYONE can be a PRO GRADER.

    I just want to be doing my job properly, and don't want to be selling kids fake cards, I care about the money obviously, but quality is first, so I need to find out how many of these cards I can sell and how many are scrap.








    DOES ANYONE KNOW A PERCENTAGE OF CARDS THAT ARE FAKE, or a ROUGH ESTIMATE OF THE TOTAL MARKETS SHARE OF FAKES.

    I also sell coins, stamps...etc(they aren't plagued by counterfeits), and am getting frusturated with not being able to tell what is fake. From what I understand POKEMON IS FULL OF FAKES, and is almost not even worth selling, I have even considered pulling them out of my store because of this. If there is no legit way to figure out fakes, and if the market is FLOODED with them, then I may just give up.


    I AM A RELATIVELY INTELLIGENT PERSON TOO. I WOULD NEVER BUY FROM A FLEA MARKET OR ANYTHING OF THAT NATURE, I GET ALL MY CARDS FROM KIJIJI ADS/EBAY/CRAIGSLIST. I BUY PEOPLES PERSONAL COLLECTIONS, THEN INDIVIDUALLY LIST EVERY CARD(THAT IS HOW I PROFIT). HOWEVER IT SEEMS THAT EVEN PEOPLE WHO WERE AVID COLLECTORS, AVIDLY COLLECTED FAKES!
    Last edited by WooEEE; 09/10/2012 at 07:45 PM.

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